Still in town

It's about 20 degrees Fahrenheit with 15 mph winds dropping it to a wind chill of about 7 under overcast skies. I'm still in McTown. It was absolutely beautiful the first two weeks after I arrived. Lots of sun with almost cloudless blue skies and temperatures into the upper 30's. Unfortunately, it didn't last.

The following week was more like today. Actually, it was worse, with higher winds and frequent snows. The worst part of it was the postponed flights. A shortage of fresh fruits, vegetables and eggs. There were other inconveniences. No mail, the store ran out of red wine, but nothing life threatening.

The worst thing was the effect on schedules. Science projects and work schedules are very tight and intricate. There are only so many planes and helicopters and crews can only fly so many hours. The schedule for the project I'm working with, PIG - more on the name later - was set back from Nov. 28 to Dec. 7. Except . . . more weather delays. I think they are going to try again tomorrow, Dec. 12. Until the first flight goes out, the remaining ones won't be assigned a date. I'm on flight five, right after a cargo-only flight, right before the helicopters get shipped.

Still, time is going quickly for me. There's a lot happening. As always, holidays are celebrated on Saturdays so a couple weeks ago we had a two-day weekend for Thanksgiving.

About 100 people participated in the Turkey Trot, a 5k race, on Saturday morning. That was followed in the afternoon by three seatings for Thanksgiving dinner to accommodate the 1,000 or so people on station.

Several times before I left, I was asked about the male/female ratio around here. A week or so ago, I saw some figures. There were about 270 women on station. This is a very sexually integrated operation with women in any and all positions. They work in medical, in the carp shop, driving heavy equipment, administration, fuels, cargo and supply, at all levels.

We're waiting to get to the camps, but we aren't sitting around. There's a lot to be done.

This time of year, the sea ice is getting too thin to support aircraft. From about Oct. until Dec. the runway is on the sea ice, close to town. In years past it was right in front of town, a few minutes away. This year it's farther back toward the more permanent ice shelf. Apparently the sea ice isn't as thick as in the past.

Many of the airfield structures are trailers on skis which are towed to the Pegasus airfield on the ice shelf about 19 miles from town by tractors. A few are soft-sided structures. Jamesways like this were used in the past, but better, modern shelters called ractents are being used as the Jamesways are phased out.

These two were actually set up at Pegasus before the sea ice runway was torn down. To give you an idea, the one in the foreground is about 40 feet long and about 8 feet high. It has wooden framing and wooden floor panels. The larger blue one behind it is about 80 feet long and about 12 feet high with metal tube framing.

This is the interior of the larger tent. The wiring is all heavy duty, multi-conductor electrical cord. I've spent the majority of my time assembling and installing these wiring harnesses. This is what's used at the field camps, both the ractents and the wiring systems.

And speaking of the field camp . . . .

The project we are supporting is called the Pine Island Glacier. Everything that possibly can have an acronym down here does. Hence, I'm with PIG. I attended a lecture by the PI (Principal Investigator;translation, scientist in charge). He said the study is actually of the Pine Island Ice Shelf, but they didn't like that acronym. Their studies involve drilling through the ice shelf, about 500 meters (1,500 feet?) and collecting data about the sea underneath. Seems the ice shelf is the fastest moving in Antarctica, about one and a half feet per hour. There is a lot interest in this; if you are interested, too, check out the site I listed at the side.

The next time I post, probably after Christmas or even New Years, I hope to have a bunch of photos and stories from PIG. See ya then.

Back to the Ice, 2011 edition.

(Dated Nov. 6, but it's taken me a week to complete . . .that's the volcano, Mt. Erebus, in the background above. )

They say the first time you come to Antarctica, it's for the adventure. The second time, it's for the money. The third time, it's because your friends are here. The fourth time, it's where you belong. This is my fifth trip.

I got to Johnstown Nov. 9, 2010 and left to head back down here on Oct 31, 2011, just a little less than a year later. That's the longest I've been in the States at one time since I began wandering around back in Oct. 2004.

What did I do during that year?

Well, there were a couple weeks hunting deer unsuccessfully. There were a couple weeks celebrating the holidays. There were numerous months job hunting, eventually somewhat successfully. There were rounds of golf, almost no fishing and very little travel. After bouncing around three or four addresses, I rented an apartment. It was in the same complex that my folks moved to in 1952 or '53, my first home in Johnstown. There was no deja vu.

In June I went to work through a temp agency for a local electrical contractor. Southwest Pennsylvania is still economically depressed. The state doesn't license electricians although it licenses barbers. Anyone can do electrical work, but the pay isn't much. For the first month, I worked mostly nights in commercial buildings changing out fluorescent ballasts and lamps. Then I moved to a crew in a powdered metals mill. The mill has gone through numerous owners and operations in it's 100+ year history. The powdered metal, mostly iron, is as fine as talcum powder. Five minutes after I started, I was filthy and stayed that way, no matter how often I washed. Needless to say, I don't want to work in a mill.

The end of August, I landed a job with the state as a semi-skilled worker at Yellow Creek State Park. It was only a 33 cent pay cut.

The park job is seasonal, but I like it. I mean, who wouldn't like working at a park? Pick litter, clean restrooms, cut grass, clean cabins, pick litter, cut grass, do minor maintenance jobs, pick litter, cut grass, return wandering pups, retrieve drifting sailboats . . .

It's a small park with a staff of ten, a good, friendly crew.

About the time I started at the park, some folks from the Antarctic program contacted me to ask if I'd be interested in working the summer, Nov. through mid-Feb. Again, long story short, my last day at the park was Oct. 21, I flew to Denver Oct. 27, to New Zealand Oct. 31 and here to McTown Nov. 4. My contract officially ends Feb. 15, but it can vary by a couple weeks. Supposedly, I can l start back at the park Mar. 26. How's that for timing?

If the job had been to work around McTown (McMurdo Station in case you don't recall) I may not have taken it. As it is, I am working with another great bunch, Science Construction. We're based here at McTown but will travel out to the field camps where scientists conduct research. That's kind of accurate; actually, we will be travelling out to set-up the camps. In most instances, we will camp out in Antarctica while we do our work. Good thing it's summer!

I expect to have a lot different photos. Good thing, because I think I posted photos of just about everything there is to photograph around town the last time I was here. As I mentioned in my email, I won't have much access to the Internet while I am out, but hopefully I'll be able to post when I get back to town.

The first day I arrived, I got my gear to my room and then headed to dinner. As I walked out of the dorm and across the parking lot to Bldg. 155, it was all extremely familiar to me. Too familiar.

It's unsettling that living in Antarctica is becoming second nature . . . .

Keep an eye on your email.

See ya later - Phil 　 　

First, check this out - http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/39159500/from/toolbar A week ago, someone had to be flown out due to illness. Apparently it was bigger news on the outside than here. Some people didn't even know it was happening. Many people, including me, got emails asking about it. I read the on-line article about it. WOW! It was windy, but I didn't know we had a blizzard. Nor did I realize that there was just a brief window of daylight. I thought it was light at 6 when I go to breakfast. I swore it was light out at 9 on Saturday night. Unless a lot of people were hiding really, REALLY well, there were only 198 of us over the winter. Whoever wrote that article could make a fortune writing fiction. . . last week's flight wasn't difficult. The first seven Winfly flights a month earlier, now those were difficult. It was the first time pilots wearing night vision goggles landed at McMurdo with passengers. The first flight out carried a fellow with appendicitis. There wasn't any real daylight . . . but that was then. Now . . .

This was taken about 2 PM on Sept. 5. The shadows have moved back a lot since then. Winfly occurred and there are 520-some souls on station. They brought fresh fruits and vegetables which were great while they lasted. They also brought the crud. It's not great and it's lasting much longer. Nothing serious, I just hope I get over it before I leave.

The Southern Bar, a 24/7 bring-your-own-drinks lounge all winter long. A great place after work at the end of the week. My birthday was celebrated with the re-opening of the Southern Bar as, well, a regular bar. No longer BYO. Not that it cost me anything that night. I'm not sure how many whiskeys I had, but it ended with a glass of Jose Cuervo. About the time it hit my stomach, I realized what it was. A beer chaser got rid of the taste and I left before I damaged too many brain cells. And - no, there are no photos, no incriminating evidence . . . not that there was anything incriminating going on . . . that's my story and I'm stickin' to it.

Condition 2. This was about 8 AM and the sun WAS up!

Our weather during Winfly has been some of the worst we've experienced all year. Certainly more snow than the whole rest of the winter. If you want a good idea of what conditions can get to, go to this youtube link - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qz2SeEzxMuE&feature=related This Thursday, the 23rd, the first 'summer' flights begin arriving. Even more importantly, we winterovers begin leaving. A few dozen left during Winfly and now the rest of us will. It's definitely time to go. You have to stay up very late or get up way too early to see the Southern Cross constellation. The novelty of seeing the sun has worn off. Several weeks ago, before the sun topped the ridge to shine on town, I walked out to Hut Point to peak 'around the corner'. Didn't even think about looking directly at it, but I remembered pretty quick. . . .

It's too crowded. Someone is sitting in 'my seat' in the galley at break. Someone is hanging their coat on 'my hook'. There are lines. I'm almost out of decent beer, two-ply tp and whiskey. There are holes in my long johns and shirts, in most of my socks. For some of us, it's been over a year already, almost 13 months. The other day someone said they would like to go to sleep and wake up when it was time to go. I understand the feeling. Three weeks from now I will be arriving in Christchurch. While I wrote this, I went under 500 hours to go. We have computer programs to keep track of such things.

Having said that . . . I signed a job offer to return next winter, Feb. through Sept. There are some really great people down here, a number of them good friends. It would be fun to come back as a town electrician. I'll have to see exactly what I get offered.

The United States Antarctic Program. The first time you come for the adventure. The second time is for money. The third time is because your friends are here. After that it's because you don't fit anywhere else. This was my fourth trip. I've spent over three years of my life on the Ice. I believe I qualify as an OAE, Old Antarctic Explorer.

As to my trip back, first stop, about a week in Christchurch to take care of a little business and relax. You may have heard about the earthquake there. It didn't have much affect, not on the company employees, company facilities nor any of the places we generally stay. I plan to eat lots of fresh vegetables and drink some tap beer. Or was it eat some fresh vegetables and . . . Then it's off to Bali for a little over two weeks. So far I have the first seven days scheduled, six of them at a dive resort. I've got some ideas about other things to do, but will wait until I've talked with other people there. After that it's a few days in Sydney, with a trip to the fish market for mud bugs and another to the Opera House for the Symphony. Who knows what else. Then home.

I'll have my computer until I leave, but I'm not packing it with me on my travels. I've got enough just hauling my dive gear around. So if you would, hold all those great jokes, forwards and other stuff until I get back to the States. I'll see you folks in PA after Nov.9.

And to everyone else - see ya whenever

Phil

Here comes the sun . . .

"Phil! The sun's coming back!" That was from a young lady on the crew a couple weeks ago. I'm sure everyone knew the sun would return, but now it's a near-constant topic of conversation. For those who just experienced their first Antarctic winter, it's a thing of wonder and relief. The end is near. For the rest of us - it's a thing of wonder and relief. The end is near. We just knew it was coming.

This photo was taken Saturday, July 24, about 1:30 PM. The photo at the very bottom was taken the following Monday. It might not look much different to you, but to those of us experiencing 'the sun coming back', it's definitely noticable.

Since the Mid-winter celebration, we've had a number of station-wide events. The 4th of July celebration was a great success. The heavy shop, scene of many big celebrations, was done up like a county fair. Pie toss, cotton candy and funnelcakes, bean bag toss, games of chance . . . an auction to raise funds for our end-of-season celebration was a huge success.

All sorts of things were donated to auction off. Paintings, massages, guitar lessons, opportunities to ride some of the odder sno-cat-like equipment, old six packs of Bud and Miller High Life - the store hasn't sold those brands in a while apparently. A five pound bag of pistachios went for $70.

So did a six-pack of two-ply toilet paper. Maybe you have to be here to appreciate such things. The company supplied product is referred to as John Wayne toilet paper - rough and tough and doesn't take shit . . .

Apparently the station manager doesn't entirely understand winterover people. She volunteered - before the auction - to match the total raised and donate it to charity. The total raised from the auction was almost $6,000. Last report, she was still going to do it.

Two weeks later we had our next-to-last, two-day weekend and the final, championship-of-the-station horseshoe tournament. It was composed primarily of people who placed in the top three teams in past tournaments. Having come in both first and third, I was in the competition - briefly. I could blame it on the cold - people were standing around in their big red parkas and a huge space heater was running - but the truth is, neither my partner nor I were on that day. We were out in two matches.

Last weekend was the Antarctic 48 hour film festival. Participants from countries at stations around the continent were given 48 hours to produce a video no more than 5 minutes long. They had to inclue five elements; a dry mop, mouthwash, the line "Has anyone seen my chicken?", a grumpy deisel mechanic and an alarm siren/signal. There were videos without these elements, but they weren't in the competition. There were 40-some entries. I made it through the first two hours. I've seen many of the rest on the station computer network. Some are very good, funny, some very artistic and not a few just plain strange, but consider the requirements . . . Next weekend will be very busy. If I'm fortunate, I will be moving to another dorm. Fortunate because if I move, I'll get a room to myself for the remainder of my stay. After a total 11+ months down here, I don't want a roommate again. Some chipper, too cheery, tan-compared-to-us-pale-winterover people, germ packin' newbie. All the 'bugs' went through everyone long ago, but we aren't immune to anything from outside. Doses of the latest flu vaccines are coming on the first flight. Hopefully I've got enough Ice time to rate a single room. There will be a ceremony Friday afternoon to present winterover medals. Saturday at 5:30 our last winterover-only celebration starts with a beer tasting at the Southern Bar. I volunteered to pour. For other people, too. Ought to be quite a party. One third of that auction money will go to for free food and drink. One third will buy everyone either a winterover t-shirt or hat. The final third was spent on gift certificates to be awarded as door prizes. The talent show begins at 8 PM at Gallagher's Bar. I'm told the band that's been assembled will be one of the best ever on the Ice - that's saying something. The following Friday, August 13, the first flight of Winfly people are due. That's both good and bad. There are 198 of us who wintered. Some will be leaving at Winfly. Most of us will stay while it gets crowded as some 400 people rain down on us, for good or ill. However, we will also get freshies - fresh fruits and vegetables. Maybe, just maybe, we will also get mail. And as the Beatles sang, "Here comes the sun . . . " more and more every day. The end is near. >

Mid-winter, the solstice

Monday, June 21 -11F 8mph winds -28 F windchill June 20, the summer solstice in the north, the winter solstice down here. The fact that it's the shortest day of the year doesn't mean much when there is just the slightest sliver of daylight for an hour or so along the northern horizon.

However, it's as dark as it is going to get. From here on, the amount of light will increase. I started to type 'sunlight', but in fact, the sun won't be shining directly on McTown for some months to come. The next sunrise behind the mountain to the north, beyond our sight, is August 19th.

For people on all the stations in Antarctica, mid-winter is THE event of the winter season. Stations send greetings to each other and mid-winter dinners are the highlight of the holiday. I've seen this celebration at all three U.S. stations and McMurdo has the other two beat hands down when it comes to the production. Preparations began a couple weeks ago. Last weekend there were printed invitations left at our room doors. Yesterday afternoon the preparations began in earnest. I volunteered to help set up. Set up some tables and chairs, I figured. The women that did the planning figured otherwise. There must have been 30 or more of us. Move tables and chairs, for sure, but also put out the table cloths, napkins, silverware and glasses. Window hangings. Lighting on the walls. Lighting on the tables. Two hours after it all began, I slipped away as the last of the lighting and decorations were going up. At 5:30, the cocktail hour began with wine, beer and appetizers. Attire ranged from jeans to suits, slacks to party dresses. At the galley entry, small place tags with our names were lined up on a table. You put it at a table to reserve your seat. At each place setting, the wine glass had a small rock wired to it. These are Erebus crystals.

Appetizers included cashew encrusted lamb, southwestern shrimp, chicken wontons and bruschetta with dips. Volunteers roamed with platters while wine stewards made sure no one wanted for more wine.

About 6:30, the curtains separating the serving area from the dining area were pulled back and we were invited to begin. The biggest line was for the salad, lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers and sprouts, a rare treat from the greenhouse. People also loaded up with entrees. Just about everyone took a crab-stuffed lobster tail, and many doubled up with beef Wellington. There was PLENTY of everything, no chance that anyone would be deprived of anything. The Cornish game hens and vegetarians' risotto croquettes weren't in demand. There were pate's and soups, several side dishes, two types of real ice cream, not the soft stuff out of a machine, a sorbet and a table laden with desserts from the bakery. A salad, the lobster, some sides, a little ice cream and a lot of little truffles and just like the lobster, I was stuffed. After dinner, the National Science Foundation representative said a few words and read a message from President Obama. Next the Raytheon station manager spoke, thanking all who made the celebration possible. The night before, a select few of our crew were included to the New Zealand celebration at Scott Base. With many of the Kiwis present, their manager commented briefly on the cooperation between the stations. Today, some hearty souls are over there taking part in the mid-winter polar plunge. Each fool, I mean, hearty soul, is hooked to a safety belt and plunge into the water through a hole in the ice specifically kept open at Scott Base. Since I hopped in the ocean a few years back over at Palmer, I decided to fore go this part of the festivities. Anyway, back to last night . . . the biggest round of applause went to the kitchen crew. All of them came out like the cast of a Broadway show and took a collective bow. They deserved it; the dinner was a feast. After dinner, many people socialized, talking and taking photos. Then the dancing began and some interesting dancing it was . . . the majority of the people are in their 20's and 30's, but the music was more appropriate in the 70's or 80's. That was fine by me; I was happily that it wasn't rap or hip hop or whatever.

People left slowly, some to their rooms while others continued the party at the bar. I was among the latter until the young folks decided to play their music - LOUD! That was okay - it was late and the two prior evenings had been late as well. We have today off as part of the celebration as well as our monthly two-day weekend. When I wintered at Pole, the dinner really was mid-winter, the middle of our season. At Palmer, we had our mid-winter dinner a few days after the last ship left and our period of isolation had just begun. Here at McTown, people that came at the beginning of the winter season are just over half way through their contracts . However . . . in about seven and half weeks, the first Winfly flight is scheduled to arrive. There are 198 folks here now. When the Winfly folks get here, there will be a total of about 650. There will be daylight again. For me, winter will be over. After that, it will largely be a matter of wrapping things up and turning them over to the folks who take over at Main Body. That's scheduled to begin in Sept. I better get busy. I don't have any definite post-Ice travel plans yet.